Francesco Tremolada
Parole e pensieri is a beautiful multipitch route under the second section of the Tofana cable car, in Cortina area.
The itinerary is well equiped (pegs and bolts) and the climbing is always very interesting and sustained on solid rock.
Approach: 2 cable cars from Cortina to Ra Valles. Walk down along the piste to Forcella Rossa and then right to the bottom of the wall and up to the starting point where you can see a red sling (around 40 min.)
Length: 280 m. – 6 pitches
Difficult: maximum 6a+
Orientation: South Est
Gear: 55 m rope, 12 quickdraws, slings and friends (0,5/075 – micro).
All the belays are bolted (except the first) and the are bolts to protect the hardest passages.Descent: from the end of the last pitch go left following the summit ridge (1/2° – exposed) and then climb the gully to exit from the wall. On the top go left and, following the piste, walk back to the cable car.
The pitches:
1. Compact rock, pegs and bolts. Belay with a thrad and a peg. 35 m – 5+/6a
2. Nice and sustained. Belay with 2 bolts. 40 m – 5+
3. Traverse on compact rock. Belay with 2 bolts. 25 m – 5+
4. Long and interesting, exit on grass. Belay with 2 bolts. 50 m – 6a
5. Gray slabs till a first belay (25 m – 5+), don’t stop and climb a well protected overhang and then on easier terrain to the belay on the edge. Belay with 2 bolts. 50 m – 6a/6a+
6. Steep slabs with distant pockets, harder for short climbers (6b+?). Useful a little friend (0,5/0,75) at the exit. Belay with 2 bolts on the summit ridge. 35 m – 6a+
