Itinerary: Odio la Guerra (I hate the war)
Group: Piccolo Lagazuoi, Passo Falzarego
Orientation: Sud
Length: 180 m – 6 pitches
Difficulty: 6c max. – obb. 6b
Protections: fix 10mm and some pegs, all the belays with 2 fix and chain (last one only 1 fix with a ring)
Gear: 12 quickdraws – 60 m rope
First ascent: Mario Dibona – Andrea Bacchin
A nice and sunny sport route, with compact rock and a sustained climbing on slabs. This is a perfect route for the Spring and Autumn or for a short climbing day.
Here some photos and the description of the route:
Approach
From the cable car parking at Falzarego Pass go up directly to the face (around 30 min.); at the starting point you can see the name of the route, a peg with a sling and the first bolts.
L1, 38m. 5b.
Good warm up along nice slabs.
L2, 35m. 6a/b.
Beautiful and long slab with many interesting moves.
L3, 15m. 6a+.
Short pitch with a roof. The bolts are well placed.
L4, 40m, 6a+.
One more long pitch with many slabs and a hard steep passage half way, starting from a ledge.
L5, 30m, 6c.
This is the hardest lenght, a compact wall with little handholds and many hard moves. Bolts are well placed.
L6, 40m, 6a, 1 pass 6b+/A0.
Hard start (but you can easily pull the bolts), then easier on steep slabs.
Descent
Walk up some meter,s on loose rocks, to a little wall (you can see one bolt), from here keep right and continue along the cengia (ledge) Martini, to the exit of the Lagazuoi tunnel and down to the parking (around 45 min).
