Francesco Tremolada
Re Artù is a great 10 pitch route which ascends the isolated and beautiful south face of the Spiz de Mondeval. The route is well bolted and the climbing is always interesting and sustained on solid rock.
GETTING THERE
From Cortina drive up to Passo Giau
ACCESS
From the Giau Pass, walk to Forcella Giau (trail number 436) and then continue left to the base of the wall (circa 50 minutes). The name marks the start of the route, circa 4m below the first bolt. The route Love my dogs starts about 5m to the right.
ROUTE
P1. Climb past the first bolt and the small overhang crux (second bolt) then continue up the easier ramp with more run-out bolts (camming devices useful). Belay: one bolt with ring. 40m – 5+/6a
P2. Climb the nice slab above the belay, then continue left via a hard move to reach easier terrain. Belay: one bolt with ring. 35m – 6a
P3. Compact slab. Belay: one bolt with ring. 35m – 5+
P4. Climb the slab directly above to reach an easy section with gravel and pass the grey pillar above on the left; walk right to reach the belay at the bottom of the corner. Belay: one bolt with ring. 35m – 5
P5. Climb the corner and exit right onto a small ledge, traverse right and climb a short overhang (camming device useful). Belay with 2 bolts. 35m – 5+
P6. Steep and long slab with a hard move at the start. Well protected (12/13 bolts). Belay: one bolt with ring. 45m – 6b
P7. After the steep start up yellow rock, climb right up a crack-lined slab with and exit right to reach a ledge. Belay: one bolt with ring. 20m – 6a (the bolts on “Love My Dogs” can be seen just to right )
P8. A sustained pitch, similar to pitch 6. After a hard start immediately to the right of the belay, continue left towards the arete beofre moving back right u the steep flake. Belay: one bolt with ring. 30m – 6a+
P9. Traverse onto the lefthand side of the pillar then climb straight up. Belay: one bolt with ring. 35m – 5
P10. After the steep, direct start continue via easier terrain to the summit. Belay on one golden bolt before the summit or 10m above on the top (natural anchor). 40m – 4/5
DESCENT
From the top of the last pitch go right (North East) following easy terrain and then either:
– walk to Forcella Rossa and then follow path number 435 and then 436 to Forcella Giau and Passo Giau (2 hours)
– enter the gully on the right via three abseils (red marker “3 x 25″ at the start), using the bolted belays and then walk to the base of the climb. This is quicker but exposed to rockfall if there are other climbers.
GEAR
55 m rope, 13 quickdraws, one little friend (0,5/075).
