Gaudeamus is a nice and long route on the south face of Col dei Bos, in the Falzarego pass area.
It was opened in September 2009 by Mario Dibona, and it’s starting to be one of the most populat routes on the face, thanks to the good rock and protections (bolts).
A picture of Mario Dibona www.dolomitiskirock.com with the line of the route:
Here the description of the route and some pics:
Approach: from the pass go down in Cortina direction and parck at Strobel restaurant. From the parking follow the path to the bottom of the Falzarego towers (WWI ruins) and then right to the starting point of the “Alpini via ferrata”. Before it, start to traverse right at the bottom of the face, following a little path (steep terrain) which goes down a bit and then reaches a big cairn marker. Above it you can see a system of slabs with the first bolt (with a sling and the name of the route) at the starting point of the climb. Calculate around 40 min.
Length: 450 m. – 11 pitches
Difficulty: maximum 6–
Orientation: South
Gear: 55 m rope, 10 quickdraws, slings and friends (camalot 1 – 2). All the belays are bolted and the are bolts along the pitches.
Descent: go left (West) along the summit field to the exit of the VF. From here follow the path traversing north to the saddle at the top of the big gully on your left. Walk down in the gully to the the bottom of the Falzarego towers (WWI ruins) and the parking (1 hour).
The pitches:
1. Climb the slab and then go a bit left to a second wall with compact rock. Bolts. Belay: bolt with a ring. 40 m – 5/5+
2. Climb a crag, then go left and pass a steep section; continue straight up, on easier terrain, till a second easier steep part. After that traverse left to the belay. Belay: bolt with a ring. 40 m – 5/5+
3. Go left and climb on the easy terrain of the pillar to a good ledge at the bottom of a yellow and black vertical slab. Belay: bolt with a ring. 55 m – 3+
4. The hardest pitch. Go up to the second bolt, then traverse left and up again. From the third bolt start to traverse right to the belay. Belay: bolt + thread. 20 m – 6-
5. Traverse right inside the gully on easy terrain. Belay: bolt with a sling. 30 m – 2
6. Climb the pillar (keeping right) and follow the chimney on your right to a good ledge. Belay: bolt with a ring. 30 m – 4+
7. The best pitch. Follow the corner which turns left and finished with a yellow crag. Belay: bolt with a ring. 50 m – 5/5+
8. Go left along a blade (loose rock), then straight up and exit right along a little ledge (here is possible to stop; 15 m, belay with 2 bolts). Continue to traverse right and climb along the edge joining the Ada route (green dots and cemented pegs) to a good ledge. Belay: bolt with ring. 35 m – 5
9. Follow the Ada route climbing the crag and then up to a terrace. Pass the steep wall above it, with a characteristic iron step, and continue following the green dots to a huge thread. Belay: thread. 50 m – 5+
10. Straight up to a first easy crag and then to a steep second one. Go left and pass a little roof to reach a good ledge. Belay: cemented peg. 50 m – 4+/5
11. Straight up to the chimneys, start along the right one and then traverse and follow the left one to the top. Belay: cemented peg. 20 m – 4+
